Iftaar Foods in Old Delhi, Jama Masjid

Hey hey hey lovely ladies…

I see you both have been upto a LOT of cooking & eating & creating magic on the platters on the dining tables…and I wish while reading and going through the ‘edible’ pictures, that if only I had the Star Trek Transporters. Oh if only I could say “Beam me to Melbourne or Shantiniketan, Scotty”!! Do you remember them didi? Oh what excitement each week as we waited to watch the Star Trek TV series on our DD channel in India. Captain Kirk, Spock, Dr. McCoy,Uhura, Sulu, Scotty…wow what a time it was …

But I digress. So coming back to the question you asked me Didi, as to where have I been for past few weeks, in your previous post of the Chessboard & Chessman cake for our dear nephew’s birthday. Since I didn’t want to feel left out in the ‘Food explorations’ you both have been upto, so I best made use of these weeks of the Holy month of Ramzaan with multiple visits to the Foodie Paradise of ‘Old Delhi’ or ‘Delhi-6’ or as it was once known 350years back, the city of ‘Shahjahanabad’

The streets of Old Delhi are a treat for a foodie throughout the year, especially for authentic street foods, as you both have enjoyed with me earlier. But visiting that place with friends, guests & tourists who joined our DelhiByFoot gang’s Special Iftaar Walks during Ramzan was an altogether out of the world experience! During Ramzan, world-over as the sun sets, devout muslims break their day-long fast with the Iftaar foods/feast and its called the ‘time for Iftaar or Iftaari’.

And Old Delhi, especially the streets near the Jama Masjid, which incidentally is the largest mosque by size in India, awakens to a slew of delectable aromas and brightly decorated markets as Muslims break their fast with Iftaar. Our first Iftaar walk in early August was a great success and many friends ‘forced’ me to do it again and again…and you know how much ‘force’ they would have used over me, before I agreed to make 2 more forays into those streets, to savour these special Iftaari foods!! Evil grin 😉 😉

Navigating through the hustle-bustle of the main markets around the mosque we made our entrance into the Jama Masjid after the mandatory security checks. And were greeted by a sea of humanity! Small groups of people crowded around sitting-mats, laying out foods & drinks, it was a festive atmosphere, more like a ‘community’ picnic of sorts where all people had their own hamper of goodies to dig into. Every evening during Ramzaan, people living in the vicinity of Jama Masjid prepare traditional delicacies at their homes or buy foods from street vendors and head out to the Jama Masjid, to eat in its gigantic courtyard.

Families, friends, shopkeepers and anybody & everybody simply get together an assortment of delicacies to eat, and water & juices and spread it out on sitting-mats inside the courtyard of the Jama Masjid. At the appointed time of Iftaar the sound of a big cracker being burst symbolically opens the ‘floodgates to food-salvation’ for the day-long hungry, but devout Muslim. A short 2-3 minutes of a ‘duaa’ or prayer and the Iftaar feasting begins in earnest.  And thats the typical daily routine all through the nearly 30 days of Ramzaan here at Delhi’s famed Jama Masjid, or Masjid-e-Jahanuma as it was known during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shahjahan who built this grandest of mosques in the world.

For all the participants who joined our two DelhiByFoot Iftaar Food walks, this kind of a ‘breaking of the fast’ Iftaar ceremony inside the Jama Masjid was a first-time experience of their lifes. And this whole event got all our participants excited & gushing appreciative words like, “Waah waah”, “We alone would have never ever been able to do this”, “Awsome once-in-a-life opportunity”, “Oh this is sssoooooooooo soooooo cool”, “Shaabash”, “We can’t thank you enough for this experience” and on & on & on!! Another of those moments when we at DelhiByFoot feel happy that the unique experiences we have created are actually helping people enjoy a new ‘slice of Delhi’ they have never experienced before!

So what did we eat inside the mosque for the Iftaar? We had taken with us Mutter(Pea) Samosas, Pakodas (Fritters), Fruit Sandwiches and Kheer.

Once the ceremonial breaking of the fast was over it was time for us to hit the narrow lanes radiating out from the Jama Masjid to feast upon the numerous varieties of foods that the street vendors dish out at a rapid pace.

                                                                                   During Ramzaan the streets are all illuminated with multi-colored bright lights everywhere, people crowd around the shops wearing brightly colored clothes and the shop-owners have a hard time keeping up with the frenetic demands of hundreds of muslims pouring out of the Jama Masjid and their houses/shops for food. The fragrant aromas from variety of food-carts & shops selling Biryanis, Kormas, Kebabs, Khajlas, Phirni, Sherbets, Iced-lollies, Fried savouries simply overwhelm your olfactory senses, making you drool and feel hungry for whatever you see…

Next on agenda for us was this sinfully calorie-rich Chicken, barbequed over coals, served with a special secret masala which finally is drenched in butter and served sizzling hot! In one word as one of my friends said YUMMIEST!

This was followed by these crunchy pieces of Fish, which had been dipped in a gram-flour batter and then deep-fried in a huge cauldron of boiling oil and served straight out of the vessel with a Chutney made of raw mangoes, mint leafs & yellow chilli….

This ‘hot & fiery’ combination left us wanting something to cool us down and we headed for the shop selling this Pink-colored Sherbet made of Iced Milk + Watermelons + RoohAfza, yes you read it right the same old Roohafza Squash made of rose petals and what not which was once a favourite cold beverage during our growing-up years!!

Suitably refreshed after glasses of the Sherbet, we ate the slightly sweet, soft & crunchy Khajlas (palm-sized, round, fluffy & flaky puffed pastries made of white flour) alongwith kulhars (earthen clay cups) of hot-steaming milk. This milk which is a favourite amongst muslims all over has been slowly cooked over a low fire with copious amounts of dry fruits like dates, almonds, pistachios, cashew nuts and raisins in it. And after a whole day of fasting these are the perfect ‘complete’ nourishment that any Muslim eagerly looks forward to. Some of us who did not wish to drink hot-milk, preferred the thick, slightly sweet chilled Lassis.

The next stop was some Biryani at Mota Pehelwaan’s shop. Followed by Goat-Meat Qorma and Chicken in a Kashmiri-style white yoghurt curry at Al Rehmani in Galli Chudi Wallan.  The yoghurt curry was almost similar to a Meat Goshtaba curry, which is a popular dish of the Kashmiri Wazwaan cuisine, albeit the Goshtaba curry is far less dense than this one was.

Next we recommend the ‘Sutli Kebabs’. A special kind of seekh (Skewer) kebab made from tenderised beef that is so soft, that a fine string is needed to hold the meat on to the skewers before roasting it on an open charcoal fire, thus giving it the name of Sutli (string) Kebabs. You can clearly see in the pic below the thin string wound around the skewers before it is roasted to perfection over the charcoal fire. You know Didi, in Kolkata there is a place which sells the same kind of Sutli Kebabs, near one of the famous mosques of Kolkata. Just that I have tried many times to find that place but have never been able to do so, as it must be a small shop. Maybe my picture will inspire you to search out this the next time you are in Kolkata!

No Iftaari walk can be complete without polishing off some ‘Shahi Tukda’, literally meaning ‘A Royal Piece’ which is a dessert made of over-baked dry bread fried in ghee, dipped in a syrupy solution of saffron & cardamom infused milk, some more ghee, sprinkled with a variety of nuts, pistachios & raisins and all this kept & served at a piping hot temperatures maintained using a slow fire throughout the evening & night! It is really really very sweet, overflowing with calories and even the die-hard foodie skips a beat before eating this goodie! Me, well I never give a second thought to it, before gulping down 100gms of this sinful wonder! Those of us who preferred a little less of the sugary stuff, ate these brightly orange colored ‘Paneer jalebis’…the taste was good, but the color was suspect as maybe harmful, unfortunately.

Our final pit-stop of these 5-6 hour long ‘Food-athons’ was the old Kulfiwallas (frozen milk desserts & frozen sorbet sellers). Almost 35 different varieties of await connoisseurs of the ‘Frozen desserts’ kind, ranging from Kulfis stuffed inside whole fruits, to frozen fruit pulp & flavoured milk and slushy fruit sorbets. Our gang’s favourite was the whole mango stuffed, grapes, jaamun, paan kulfi and pomegranates.

So now sisters you know where I have been, what I have been eating and for a change I can say, what you guys have missed in these past 4 weeks of exciting Ramzaan food-explorations!

Lotsa love and I sign off now with this pic of the Jama Masjid as it was lit up during Ramzaan…

6 comments on “Iftaar Foods in Old Delhi, Jama Masjid

  1. […] again..coz I see new things that I never tasted…me and Niloy together drooled over your Iftaar foods post and the other pictures on your DelhiByFoot Facebook page and took a pledge..WE HAVE TO GO TO […]

  2. Vikas says:

    Mast hai yaar….teri photography ne is blog ko aur bhi khoobsurat bana diya.Hope these are from ur camera only. It makes me feel to be at this place. Superb photography Ramit.

    Keep it up.

  3. Atiur Rahman Khan says:

    very elaborate description and you have touched almost every must-be-eaten at Delhi 6. The kabab shopr which you are desirous of finding and trying in Calcutta is near Nakhoda Masjid in Chitpur Road. The shop is next to or very near to Allaudding Sweet Shop. When you go there Dont Forget to try the LADDOOS at the Alauddin and the Karodia’s. Yellow laddus very soft made of khawa and boondi and ghee, very quintessential of Calcutta based muslim mithaiwala shops. Nearby is the ROyal hotel, I hope you know about it.

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